Pile fabric and its method of manufacture



Dec. 26, r1961 L. M. VALENTINE PILE FABRIC AND ITS .METHOD OF'/MANUFACTURE 'Filed .June .12, 1959 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 B55 BB HM6545Z/ MUwwwwwwww TN ff+t+t+f mE Z333 VM wwwwwwww ..N.M. on o m o ons M 0 s a .7/987 W W 6 wm 5 Kani, A 4 M635 Y m 3 unmsfysz/ B 2 w A f M3523 s 0 w L rt M X: xfl D o ooo oo wm o o MM E000 ooo w a W M 2 E C D l W Q .p x xoxo F ooo ooo wn o o o ooo oo n O O MV1/UV 2 p `\\.\W\\\\\\\ P M R 7C N Ema 4P p M W u D .u mw E X e. h

i7' 7017/75 YS Dec. 26, 1961 l.. M. VALENTINE 3,014,502

PILE FABRIC AND ITS METHOD 0F MANUFACTURE Filed June l2, 1959 3Sheets-Sheet 2 BSE 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Dec. 2.6, 1961 L. M. VALENTINE PILEFABRIC AND ITS METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed June l2, 1959 `necessary fora short pile fabric.

nite States My invention relates to the manufacture of cut pile fabricshaving more than one length of pile woven in the same pieces of cloth atthe same time, and more particularly to two fabrics woven face to face`such that each will have two or more lengths of pile evenly distributedover the face of each fabric.

In the art of weaving cut pile fabrics by any of the :presently known oremployed looms it .has never been .suggested to weave a fabric of morethan one length of pile in the same piece at the same time with theconventional knife rail set to cut the pile midway between the top Iandbottom pieces. If `the knife rail were set to cut the pile olf-center,it would `necess-arily produce one piece with relatively high pile whilethe other piece would possess all `low pile. It is further known in theart of weaving cut pile fabric that pile must be kept taut at all timesduring the weaving operation to permit the shuttles to fly withoutobstruction from slack pile ends in the respective sheds. lt is alsounderstood that it is necessary to deliver a greater length of pile yarnfor a long pile fabric than is Prior to my invention, the weaving of twolengths of pile was not possible in view of the fact that the loom wouldhave to be set for the weaving of the short pile, which would thus leavethe yarn of the long pile relatively loose thereby causing the shuttlesto y out of the loom and the yarn to snarl and eventually break.

It has been proposed, as a method of obtaining two lengths of pile, toemploy a fiber used in the making of pile fabric having deiinite heatshrinking characteristics. The fabric having such fibers is subjected tothe application of heat, thereby causing a shrinkage of the fibereffected by such heat and thereby resulting in a fabric having twolengths of pile.

Fabrics of two lengths of pile have been made in uncut pile fabrics inwhich the pile in the fabric is in loop form.

` Fabrics of this type are commonly known as frieze fabrics.

However, on these fabrics the pile is not cut in either the loom or offthe loom, and there is no means ofcutting the loops evenly and uniformlyacross and lengthwise of the fabric.

Accordingly, an object of my invention is to provide a fabric havingmore than one length of cut pile.

Another object is to weave two or more lengths of pile in `the samepiece at the same time evenly across and lengthwise of the piece,withthe length of pile being selectable and variable according to theseparate lengths desired, such lweaving being possible on the presentlyknown double shuttle plush loom and single shuttle plush loom whereinthe cutting of the pile by the usual cutting mechanism is accomplishedalong the central plane interposed .between the usual top and bottompieces of fabric or by cutting the pile along such plane after thepieces have been removed from the selected loom.

A further object is to provide different lengths of cut pile to providefur-effect fabrics by compatible weaves wherein a weave is employed toproduce compactness for the short fur body, whereas another weave isemployed to produce the long open guard liber of the fur with the weavesand yarns selected being dependent upon the system selected forproducing the desired fur resemblance.

An important object is to facilitate the weaving of cut 'l atene i3,014,502 Patented Dec. 26, 1961 pile .fabric having appreciably longerpile lengths than is now possible by means of the present plush `loom ofeither the double shuttle type with the pile being cut in the loom atthe midway point between the top and bottom pieces by means of thepresently employed pile Vcutting mechanism, or by the single shuttletype wherein the pile is cut either inthe loom or olf the loom byconventional cutting means. l t

Another important object is to `weave Amore Athan one length of pile bymeans of such plush looms wherein the distance that the top and bottom`pieces are set apart is only dependent upon the selected length ofshort pile, thereby permitting the weaving of yarn of considerably lessstrength than would otherwise be required *to weave the selected lengthof long pile.

The principles of this invention are applicable to all known types ofcut pile fabrics -of substantially all weaves and constructions made onthe presently known and conventional double shuttle plush looms whichweave two pieces of cloth simultaneously face to face or `by thepresently known single shuttle plush loom which weaves two pieces faceto face at the same time. In accordance with these looms, the pile iscut either in the loom while weaving by the conventionally employedreciprocatory cutting knife or off the loom by a cutting machine kno-wncornmercially to 'the art as a splitter. The present inventionadvantageously utilizes extra filling or weft threads which are removedfrom the fabric after completing their function, or extra gauze fabricwoven with each ofthe top and bottom pieces and subsequently removedafter completing Itheir function. These extra filling threads and gauzefabrics are woven on the face side of boththe topand bottom pieces andfunction to keep the pile warp tight during the stages when it is notweaving with the `base fabric, as well as to hold such pile warp tightwhile being transferred from the top to bottom piece, and vice versa.The pile cutting position is interpreted or selected as .the centrallocation between the top and bottom pieces where the pile yarn istransferred from one piece yto the other. The extra filling threads orgauze, as the case may be, are then removed from the base fabrics by thetechniques Y used in the trade for this purpose.

veight filling threads to the repeat;

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view illustrating the fabric wovenin accordance with FIG. l after the connecting pile has been cut and thesupporting weft threads removed;

FIG. 3 is a graph illustrating a suitable drawing and shedding operationfor practicing 'my invention;

FIG. 4 is another diagrammatic illustration of the weaving of grounds ofa double pile fabric wherein the fabric is made by combining an eightpick weave, of which two picks are removed after weaving to produce theconventional six pick weave, together with a sixteen pick weave, ofwhich four picks are removed to produce the conventional twelve pickweave, twelve picks of which will be picks of weave and four picks ofwhich will be pull-out picks; Y

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view illustrating the fabric wovenin accordance with FIG. l after the con- FIG. 6 is a graph illustratinga suitable drawing and shedding operation for fabricating my inventionin accordance with FIGS. 4 and 5;

FIG. 7 is still another diagrammatic illustration of the arrangement ofyarns in the weaving of a double pile fabric in accordance with myinvention wherein this fabric is made by combining a twelve pick shortpile weave in which six picks are removed after weaving, together with atwenty-four pick long pile weave in which twelve picks are removed afterweaving;

FIG. 8 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view of the fabric woven inaccordance with FIG. 7 after the connecting pile has been cut and thesupporting gauze fabric removed; and

FIG. 9 is a graph of a suitable drawing and shedding operationillustrating the manner in which the fabric of FIGS. 7 and 8 is woven.

The present invention is concerned with the weaving of cut pile fabricswhich are woven face to face such that they will ultimately possess twoor more radically different heights of pile, the length of which isreadily and accurately controlled. These different lengths of cut pileare, accordingly, adapted to be evenly distributed over the face of thefabric, thereby permitting the construction of a fabric having all ofthe characteristics of natural furs. In this connection the fine shortpile simulates the body of such natural furs and the long, coarse fibersresemble the long, coarse guard hairs of such furs.

The principles of the present invention are applicable to substantiallyall cut pile fabrics of conventional weaves and are capable of beingpracticed by the employment of presently known and commercial doubleshuttle plush looms which weave two pieces simultaneously face to faceand on the commercially available single shuttle plush loom which iscapable of weaving two pieces at a time face to face. In connection witheither type of loom, the pile is either cut in the loom during theoperation of weaving or subsequently cut on a splitter commonly employedin the art for this purpose after the goods have been taken from theloom with the pile uncut.

In accomplishing the present invention, either extra filling threads orgauze fabrics is advantageously employed between the top and bottompieces, the separation of which in the loom is determined by the desireddistance necessary to make the shorter pile. Under such circumstances,the interposed threads or fabric between the top and bottom piecesfunction to maintain the long pile taut so that the two lengths of pileare woven at the same time in the same piece with the knife rail andcutting knife being set midway between the top and bottom pieces. Theselection of either extra filling threads or an extra gauze fabric willdepend on the desired length of the long pile, but in either case theextra filling threads and the gauze fabric are woven into and with thepile warp as well as the ground warp of both top and bottom pieces so asto provide equal tension and fastness to each of the pile ends evenlyacross the piece. The filling threads or gauze fabric are woven in onthe face side of both the top and bottom pieces and are removed fromsuch pieces after such pieces are removed from the loom.

The extra filling threads and the gauze fabric function to maintain theextra amount of pile yarn which is delivered for purposes of forming thelong pile relatively tight while the long pile is not weaving with theground, as well as to hold such pile tight while being transferred fromthe top and bottom pieces. In addition, these extra filling threads orgauze fabric serve to maintain the threads away from the cutting knifeuntil the proper time at which the pile is most advantageously cut, aswell as to keep the pile taut when being presented to the cutting knife.In cooperation with the normally employed bumper rods, these fillingthreads or gauze fabric keep the pile taut at substantially all times tomaintain the weaving sheds clear of loose ends and, thus, permit theshuttles to fly without obstruction. These extra filling threads, aswell as the gauze fabric, are woven with their own selvage so that theirremoval is thereby facilitated after the cutting knife has performed itsfunction. The removal of the threads may be accomplished by the meansand techniques usually employed in the making of frieze fabrics. Inremoving the gauze the filling of the gauze is first removed so as notto disturb the pile. The warp of the gauze, as a consequence, becomesmerely cotton thread waste.

In constructions requiring very long pile it is often necessary to makevery long warp iioats in the weave to produce these long pile effects.Under such circumstances, when the pile warp is not weaving, it would bein a position to snarl and twist around other or adjacent threads if notkept tight and held in place. The employment of the gauze fabric underthese conditions will prevent such undesirable results. The gauze fabricis, accordingly, lwoven with the extra filling and into the base fabricby the pile warp and interlaced in such a manner to form a well tied inbase to carry the pile warp and, consequently, keep it taut to permitthe proper shedding of the loom as well as the many other functionsstated in the above.

The manufacture of fabrics in accordance with my invention may becarried out on the usual type of double shuttle plush loom havingshuttles S and S which are simultaneously operable in fixed planes torespectively lay weft threads across the loom. As will be understood bythose skilled in the art, the loom is also equipped with theconventional reciprocatory cutting knife, the usual take-up or pinrollers, and the commonly employed pile delivery rollers, either singleor double depending on the selected weaves and required heights of thedifierent lengths of pile.

In weaving the particular fabric shown in FIG. l and FIG. 3 of thedrawings, which is shown by way of illustration only, I utilize thebacking warps A and A' and B and B', warps A and A forming the groundfor the upper or top fabric and B and B' the ground for the bottom orlower fabric. As will be evident shortly, the pile warps P1 and P2 formthe short pile while the pile warps P3, P4, P5 and P6 form the longpile, with all of the pile warp ends connecting the grounds of the upperand lower fabrics. These piles when cut will form the tufts of both thetop and bottom fabrics.

The warp yarn ends in a reed dent are drawn through the heddle eyes ofthe heddles mounted in heddle or harness frames 1-10 arranged as shownin the diagram of FIG. 3 marked Draw, this draw and weave being for a land l backing weave.

In the manufacture of fabrics in accordance with the exemplary specificembodiment of FIG. l and FIG. 3, it will be apparent that two sets ofdelivery rollers need not be utilized since the high and low pile willrequire the same yardage of yarn for their respective weaves. In thisconnection, the two different weaves of this construction, namely theshort pile weave repeating on four picks--of which two picks are removedafter weavingand the long pile weave repeating on eight picks of whichfour picks are removed after weavingwill produce a short pile twice ascompact as the long pile, whereas the latter will be twice as long. Theweight of the yarn in both the high and the low pile will beapproximately the same, provided the same size yarn is used for both.

In weaving a repeat of this fabric the cycle may be considered asstarting with the simultaneous laying of the picks or wefts WIA and WIBby the upper shuttle S and the lower shuttle S', respectively, with theweft yarn as laid by both shuttles being the same size and count.

The positions occupied by the warp yarns during the laying of the weftsare indicated in FIG. 3 which shows the up, down and center positionswhich are conventional designations of pile positions for all pilefabrics. In view of the importance of the positions that the pulloutpicks or weft threads occupy, I employ other symbols, namely X to denotepile up over top pull-out and a small dot for pile over bottom pull-outweft. The usual large black dot representing up signifies that both topand bottom warps are over wefts A for the top piece and wefts B for thebottom piece; X representing center signifies that these warps are overthe lower wefts and under the upper wefts; and empty white squaresrepresenting down signify that these warps are under the top wefts forthe top shuttle and under the bottom wefts for the Ibottom shuttle,these being the positions of each warp thread during the laying of eachpair of wefts or picks. Each vertical row of squares of the draw denotesthe relative position of each end of the warp; and the raising andlowering of each end is so indicated in the weave and harness chain.

Thus, the arrangement of the ground ends and the pile ends in FIG. l isbottom ground end 7, top ground end 9, bottom ground end 8, top groundend l0, short pile end l, long pile end 3, long pile end 4, these to;complete the iirst dent in the reed. Then bottom ground end 8, topground end l0, bottom ground end 7, top ground end 9, short pile end 2,long pile end and long pile end 6 will complete the second dent and therepeat of the draw.

During the laying of wefts WA and WlB, the usual harnesses of the loomare properly arranged such that the heddles through which the warp yarnspass hold ground warp A in the up position and ground warp A in the downposition with respect to the top piece, and ground warp B in the upposition and ground warp B in the down position in the bottom piece.These ground warps of both the top and bottom pieces then continue toweave in a l up and l down arrangement with the wefts W1A, W3A, WSA andW'7A for the top piece and wefts WlB, WSB, WSB andf'W7B for the bottompiece, wefts WZA, W4A, W6A and WSA for the top piece and wefts WZB, W4B,W6B and WSB for the bottom piece being all pull-out wefts or picks usedto hold the pile in position for weaving and dwelling.

The complete weaving of each warp thread with wefts lWIA and WIB is asfollows: ground warps A and A and B and B are disposed as previouslystated; pile warp P1 is held in an up position over WIA; pile warp P2 isheld in a down position under -weft WIB; pile warp P3 is held in an upposition over weft WlA; pile warp P4 is in a center up position underweft WEA; pile warp P5 is held in a center down position under WEA and"lY over WIB; and pile warp P6 is in a down position under wefts WIA andWIB, thus completing the progress of the first weft thread.

During the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively,wefts WZA and WZB and, as stated previously, ground warps A and A andground warps B and B' do not weave with wefts WZA or WZB in either thetop or bottom pieces since WZA and WZB are pullout wefts weaving onlywith the pile warps. n Under such circumstances, pile P1 is held in acenter position passing under wefts WZA and over weft WZB; pile P1 istransferred from the top to the bottom piece; pile P2 is held in acenter position over weft WZB and under weft W2A; pile P2 beingtransferred from the bottom to the top piece; and pile warp P3 is heldin the top center position under weft WZA to form half of the interlacewith weft WZA along with pile warp P4 which 'will be evident shortly tothusly hold pile warp P3 taut in the dwell. Pile Warp P4 is in the topcenter position over weft WZA, thereby completing the interlace withweft WZA and pile warp P3` Pile warp P3 and pile warp P4 embrace eachother about weft WZA to form a rm support for weft WZA to therebyconstantly maintain the desired tension and tautness on the pile warps.Pile warp P5 is held in the bottom center position by weft WZB. In thisconnection, weft WZB passes over pile warp P5 and thusly forms half ofthe bottom interlace with pile warp P6 and weft WZB.` Pile warp P6 isheld in the center down position over weft WZB tovthereby complete theinterlace with weft WZB. Consequently, pile warp P6 cooperates with pilewarp P15 to provide a firm support for weft WZB for purposes ofmaintaining the tension constant on the pile warps, as well as to supplya rrn support for holding all the pile warps taut.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts WSA and WSB, top ground A is down and ground A is up with respectto `weft WSA for the top piece, whereas ground warp B is down and groundwarp B is up with respect to weft W3B. Pile warp P1 is in a downposition under weft WBB, while pile warp P2 is in an up position overweft WSA. As will be observed, pile wa1p P3 is held in the center upposition under weft WSA, pile warp P4 in the down position under weftWSB, pile warp P5 in the up position over weft WSA, and pile warp P6 inthe down center position over weft WBB.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts WA and WB which do not weave with ,ground warps A and A' for thetop piece or B and B for the bottom piece, pile warp P1 is held in thecenter position during its transfer from the bottom piece to the toppiece, passing over weft W43 and under weft WdA, piie warp PZ is held incenter position as it is being transferred from the top piece to thebottom piece, and consequently is under weft WLiA and over weft WeB.Pile warp P3 is in the top center position, passing over weft Wit-A toform the interlace with weft WLtA alo-ng with pile warp P5. Pile warp P4is held in the down center position, passing over weft W4B to form theinterlace with weft WeB together with pile warp P6. Pile warp P6 is heldin the down center position, passing under weft WiiB to complete theother half of the interlace of weft WiB and to cooperate with pile warpP4 to form the `desired rm support for this weft W4-B. Pile warp P5 isheld in the up center position under weft WtA to fonm the interlace ofweft i1/4A along with pile warp P3 to provide the iirm support for weftWfiA to maintain the tension constant on all of the pile ends and tokeep the pile warps taut for weaving.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts WSA and WSB, the ground warp for the top piece A is held up andground warp for A is held down. Similarly, ground warpl B is up andground warp B is down to complete the plain weave for the bottom piece.Pile Warp P1 is up and over weft WSA while pile warp PZ is down andunder weft WSB. In addition, pile warp P3 is held in a down positionunder weft WB and pile warp P4 is held in a down center position overweft WSB. In completing this movement pile warp P5 will be in a centerup position under weft WSA and pile warp P6 will be held in an upposition under weft WSA.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts W6A and WB, wherein these wefts do not weave with ground warps Aand A for the top piece or with wefts B and B' for the bottom piece,pile warp P1 is held in a center position as it is being transferredfrom the top to the bottom piece, and pile warp P2 is similarly in acenter position as it passes from the bottom to the top piece. Pile warpP3 is in a bottom center up position, passing over weft WGB to form partof the interlacing with weft WB, and pile warp P4 is held in the bottomcenter up position under weft WdB to complete the interlacing with thisweft W6B to thereby provide a firm anchor for wett WGB to maintain thetension uniform for all the pile ends in the botto-m piece and the pilewarps taut for weaving. Pile warp PS is held in the up center positionover weft WB and pile warp P6 isheld in the center up position, passingunder weft WGA to complete the interlacing of weft WSA to thereby formthe desired support for this weft AW6A for the reasons stated in theabove.

During the reverse movement for shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts W7A and W7B, the ground warp A for the top piece is held in a downposition and ground warp A' is held in an up position, while ground warpB for the bottom fabric is in the down position, and ground warp B' inthe up position to continue the plain weave arrangement of the groundfabric. Thus, pile warp P1 is held in the down position by weft W7B,pi'le warp P2 is in the up position, passing over weft W7A, Pile warp P3is held in the center down position, passing above weft W7B, pile warpP4 is held in the up position, passing over weft W7A, pile warp P5 isheld in the down position, passing under weft W7B and pile warp P6 isheld in the center up position, passing below weft W7A,

During the reverse movement for shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts WBA and WSB, which as previously stated do not weave with theground warps A and A for the top piece and wefts B and B for the bottompiece, pile warp P1 is held in a center position as it is beingtransferred from the bottom to the top piece. Pile warp P2, on the otherhand, is similarly held lin a center position while passing from the toppiece to the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 is in the bottom center downposition under the weft WSB and pile warp P4 is held in the down centerup position under the weft WSB. Pile warp P5 is held in the down centerup position o-ver the weft WSB to complete the interlacing and anchoringof the weft WSB. Pile warp P6 is held in the up center position, passingunder weft WSA, and completes the interlacing of the weft WSA to form afirm support for holding the tension even on all the pile ends and toact against pile warp P5 to hold the pile warps taut for weaving as wellas for the other reasons advanced in the above.

The manufacture of fabrics illustrated in FIGS. 4, 5 and 6 may e carriedout on the usual type double shuttle plush looms having shuttles markedS and S' simultaneously operable in fixed planes to Ilay weft threadsacross the loom. The loom is, in all respects, similar to thatpreviously mentioned in connection with FIGS. 1-3 but requires two setsof delivery rollers, each set having its own drive and change gears toregulate the amount of yarn delivered for the height of pile desired.

The warp yarn ends in a reed dent are drawn through the heddle eyes ofthe heddles mounted in heddle frames or harness frames 1-10 arranged asshown in the diagram marked draw of FIG. 6. This draw, as well as theillustrated weave, is primarily adopted for weaving a 1 and l backingweave. In this particular embodiment the backing warps A and A form theground warps for the top piece and backing warps B and B' form theground warps for the bottom piece. Pile warps P1 and P2 are employed forthe short pile and warps P3, P4, P5 and P6 the long pile. It will beapparent shortly that all pile warp ends connect the grounds of the toppiece and bottom piece arranged in such a manner that when cut they willform the tufts 0f both the top and bottom fabrics.

In weaving this fabric the cycle may be considered as starting with thesimultaneous laying of the wefts WIA and WIB by the upper shuttle S andthe lower shuttle S', respectively, the weft yarn laid by both shuttlesbeing the same size and count.

During the laying of wefts WIA and WIB, the usual harnesses of the loomare suitably positioned with the heddles through which the warp yarnsrespectively pass, disposing as illustrated ground warps A and A withrespect to weft WIA for forming the top piece and ground warps B and B'with respect to weft WIB for forming the ground fabric for the bottompiece. As illustrated in the draw of FIG. 6, the warps are initiated byhaving the rst end of the bottom fabric dressed-in as end l, then therst end of the top fabric being dressed-in as end 2. Each series ofwarps, both top and bottom, are then continued by weaving 1 up and 1down with the top ground wefts WZA, WSA, WSA, W6A, W7A, W9A, W10A andW-11A for the top piece and with WZB, W3B,

WSB, W6B, W7B, W9B, W10B and WIIB for the bottom piece. Wefts W4A, WSAand W12A pull out wefts which do not weave with the top ground ends, andwefts W4B, WSB and WIZB pull out wefts which similarly do not weave withthe bottom ground wefts. These pull-out wefts are employed to weave withthe long pile ends to hold them tight during the dwell, as well asduring their transfer from -top and bottom pieces. Under suchoircumstances, the weaving sheds advantageously clear the slack ends,the cutting mechanism permitted to effectively cut the pile.Furthermore, during the simultaneous laying of the weft threads WIA andWIB, these wefts WIA and WIB are also woven with pile warp P1 in an upposition over weft WIA, and pile Warp P2 in a down position under weftWIB. Pile warp P3 is held in an up position with weft WIA passingthereunder, while pile warp P4 is held in a down position by passingunder weft WIB. Pile warp P5 is held in a center down position at thispoint with pile warp P6 in a center up position. Thus, the weaving ofall the yarns with wefts WIA and WIB is accomplished.

During the reverse movement of shutles S and S to lay respectively weftsWZA and WZB, ground warp A is held in a down position and ground warp Ais held in an up position for the top piece; the ground warp B is heldin a down position and ground warp B is held in an up position, thusforming the plain weave arrangement of the ground fabric of both the topand bottom pieces. Pile warp PI is held in a down position vso that weftWZA passes over this pile warp P1; and pile warp P2 is held in the upposition, passing over weft WZB. As will be observed, pile warp P3 isheld in the down position in the top piece, and pile warp P4 is held inthe up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the centerdown position in the bottom piece in the dwell, and pile warp P6 is heldin the center up position in the dwell in the top piece. Thus, theweaving of all warp threads with wefts WZA and WZB has been completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively thewefts WBA and W3B, ground warp A is held in the up position with groundwarp A' being held in the down position in the top piece; and groundwarp B is held in the up position with ground warp B in the downposition in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position inthe top piece, while ground warp 2 is held in the down position in thebottom piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the top piece,while pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the bottom piece.Pile warp P5 is held in the dwell in the center down position of thebottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the dwell in the center upposition of the top piece; thus, completing the weaving of all the warpswith wefts W3A and W3B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively thewefts W4A and W4B, ground warps A and A' do not weave with weft W4A inthe top piece and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft W4B in thebottom piece since these wefts W4A and W4B are pull-out wefts that weaveonly with the long pile warp threads to thereby hold them in place andtake up the slack yarn in these warps caused by the extra yardagedelivered to produce the two heights of pile. It should be understoodthat other functions are performed by these -pull-out wefts asenumerated in the above. Pile warp P1 does not weave with wefts W4A orW4B as pile warp P1 is being transferred from the top to lthe bottompiece and is held in a center up posi-tion under weft W4A and over weftW4B. Pile warp P2 does not Weave with wefts W4B or W4A as pile warp P2is being transferred from the bottom to the top and is held in thecenter down position, passing over weft W4B and under weft W4A. Pilewarp P3 is held in the center up position under weft W4A to form half ofthe interlace with weft W4A and to hold against pile warp P6. Pile warpP4 is held in the center down position to form half of the yinterlacewith weft W4B and to hold against pile warp P5. Pile warp P5 is held inthe center down position to form the other half of the interlace withweft W4B Iand to hold against pile warp P4 to form a firm foundation formaintaining the desired tensioning of all the long pile Wlarp threadsoonstant across the width of the pieces and for holding the pile endstaut while in the dwell, thereby taking up slack yarn that is created bythe delivery of `the pile to produce the two pile heights. Under theseconditions, the pile yarns will lber'suiiciently tight to keep ltheweaving sheds clear of loose yarns, 4to permit 4the cutting knife to cutthe pile at even lengths at the proper time, and to facilitate theirtransfer between top and bot-tom pieces.

Pile warp P6 is held in the center up position lto form the other halfof the interlace wit-h pile warp P4 and weft W4A, to hold against pilewalp P3 to form the firm foundation for the top piece to hold .the longpile warp ends in position and to perform the other functions describedin the foregoing. Thus, the weaving of the yarns with the wefts W4A andW4B is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively thewefts WSA and WSB, ground warp A is held in a down position and groundwarp A is held in an up position for the top piece, and ground warp B isheld in a down position while ground warp B' is held in an up positionfor the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 having been transferred from the topto the bottom piece by the weaving of wefts W4A and W4B is now in a downposition in the bottom piece, and pile warp P2 having been transferredfrom the bottom piece to the top piece by the weaving of wefts W4A andW4B is now in an up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in acenter up position being held in the dwell under weft WSA, and pile warpP4 is held in the down center position being held in the dwell of thebottom piece being over weft WB. Pile warp P5 is held in the up positionover weft WSA, and pile warp P6 is held in the down position under weftWBB, thus completing the weaving for wefts WSA and WSB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsWGA and W6B, the ground warp A is held in an up position and ground warpA' is held in a Ydown position in the top piece, and ground warp B isheld in an up position and ground warp B is held in a down position.Pile warp P1 is held in an up position in the bottom piece and pile warpP2 is held in a down position in the-top piece. Pile warp P3 is` held ina center up position being held in the dwell under weft W6A, and pileWarp P4 is held in a down center position being held in the dwell overweft WlB. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position of the top piece'andpile w-arp P6 is held in the up position of the bottom piece, thuscompleting the weaving of all the warp threads with wefts W6A and W6B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts W7A and W7B, ground warp A is held in the down position, andground warp A is held in the up position for the top piece; and groundwarp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the upposition for the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down positioninthe bottom piece and pile Warp P2 is held in the up position in thetop piece. Pile warp P3 is held in `the 4up center position,I being heldin the dwell under weft W7A, and pile warp P4 is held in the down centerposition, being held in the dwell over weft W7B. Pile warp P5 is held inthe up position in the top piece and pile warp P6 is held in the downposition of the bottom piece, thus completing the weaving of all thewarps with wefts W7A and W7B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S andrS' to lay respectivelywefts WSA and WSB, ground warps A and A' do not weave with weft W'SA forthe top piece, weft WSA passing under both A and A' of the top piece;and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft WSB of the bottom piece,weft WSB passing over both B and B'. Pile warp P1 does not Weave witheither wefts WSA or WSB since pile warp P1 is in the process of beingtransferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in thecenter position under weft WSA and over weft WSB. Pile warp P2 does notweave with either weft WSA or weft WSB since pile warp P2 is in theprocess of being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece andis held in the center position under weft WSA and over weft WSB. Pilewarp P3 is held in the center up position over weit WSA to form half ofthe interlace with weft WSA and to hold against pile warp P5. Pile warpP4 is held in the down center position under weft WSB to form half ofthe interlace with weft WSB and to hold `against pile warp P6. Pile warpP5 is held in the center up position, passing under weft WSA to completethe other half of the interlace with weft WSA and to complete the holdagainst pile warp P3 to form a irm support for weft WSA to hold all ofthe long pile ends in the top piece under constant tension across thepiece, and to permit weft WSA to complete the other functions that it isobliged to do as described in the foregoing. Pile warp P6 is held in thedown center position under weft WSB to complete the interlace with weftWSB and to complete the hold against pile warp P4 to form a firm supportfor weft WSB to similarly hold all the long pile ends in the bottompiece under constant tension across the piece, thus the weaving of allwarp ends with wefts WSA and W8B has been completed.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsWQA and W9B, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp Ais held in the down position inthe top piece, `and ground warp B is heldin the up position and ground warp B is held in the down position in thebottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the top pieceand pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pilewarp P3 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile WarpP4 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held inthe center up position, being held in the vdwell under weft W9A and pilewarp P6 is held in the center down position, being held in the dwellover weft W9B, thus completing the weaving of all warps with wefts W9Aand W9B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsWli'A and WIOB, ground warp A is held in the down position and groundw-arp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp Bis held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the upposition in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down positionin the top piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in thebottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the bottompiece and pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the top piece.Pile warp P5 is held in the center up position, being held in the dwellunder weft W10A, and pile warp P6 is held in the center down position,being held in the dwell over weft WlB, thus completing the weaving ofall warps with wefts WltlA and W10B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively weftsW11A and W11B, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warpA is held in the i. down position in the top piece, and ground warpB isheld in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down positionin the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the toppiece and pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece,pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pilewarp P4 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 isheld in the center up position in the top piece, it being held in thedwell under weft W11A, and pile warp P6 is held in the center downposition, it being held inthe dwell over weft W11B, thus completing theWeaving of all warps with wefts WHA and W11B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively thewefts W12A and W12B, ground wfarps A-and A do not weave with weft W12Ain the topA piece,

both `ground warps A and A' passing over weft WIZA, and ground warps Band B' do not weave with weft WIZB in the bottom piece, both groundwarps A and A passing under weft W12B. Pile warp P1 does not weave withweft W12A or wef-t W12B since pile warp P1 1s 1n the process of beingtransferred from the top piece to the bottom piece and is held in -acenter position, passing under weft WIZA and over weft W12B. Pile warpPZ does not Weave with either weft WlZA or WlZB since pile warp P2 is inthe process of being transferred from the bottom piece to the top pieceand is held in the center position, passing over weft W12B and underweft W12A. Pile warp P3 is held in the up on bottom center position,passing over weft W12B to form half of the 1nterlace with weft WIZB -andto hold against pile warp P6. Pile warp P4 is held in the down positionof the top center to form half of the interlace with weft WMA and tohold against pile warp P5. Pile warp P5 is held in the up top centerposition and completes the interlace with weft WlZA and to complete thehold against pile warp P4, to form a rrn foundation to hold the longpile ends in position in the top piece and to maintain the tension ofall the long pile ends constant across the piece, and to permit the weftWIZA to perform the other functions that it is obliged to perform asdescribed previously. Pile warp P6 is held in the down on the bottomcenter position to complete the interlace with weft W123 and to holdagainst the pile warp P3 to form a rrn foundation for all of the longpile ends in the bottom piece, and to hold all the long pile ends underconstant tension to permit weft W12B to perform its other expectedfunetions, thus the weaving of all the warps with wefts W12A and W12Bhas been completed.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsW13A and W13B, ground warp A is held in the down position and groundwarp A is held in the up position in the top piece. Under theseconditions, ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp Bis held in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held inthe down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the upposition in top piece. Pile warp P3 is in the center down position inthe bottom piece, it being held in the dwell weit W13B, passing overpile warp P3. Pile warp P4 is held in the center up position in the toppiece, it being held in the dwell under weft W13A. Pile warp P5 is heldin `the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held inthe up position in the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all thewarps with wefts W13A and W13B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts W14A and W14B, ground warp A is held in the up position and groundwarp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp Bis held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the downposition in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position inthe bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the down position in thetop piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the center down position in thebottom piece, it being held in the dwell over weft W14B, and pile warpP4 is held in the center up position in the top piece, it being held inthe dwell under wett WMA. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in thebottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the down position in the toppiece, thus completing the Weave of all the warps with wefts W14A andW14B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to llay respectivelywef-ts WlSA and WlSB, ground warp A is held in the up position andground warp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and groundwarp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the upposition in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down positionin the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in thetop piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the center down position of thebottom piece, it being held in the dwell over weft WISB, and pile warpP4 is held in the center up position in the top piece, it being held inthe dwell under weft W1SA. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position inthe bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the up position in the toppiece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts W15A andW15B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts W16A and W16B, ground warps A and A' do not weave with weft W16Ain the top piece, and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft W16Bin the bottom piece, ground warps A and A passing over weft W16A andground warps B and B' passing under weft W16B. Pile warp P1 does notweave with weft W16A or weft W16B as it is in the process of beingtransferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in acenter position. Pile warp P2 does not weave with wefts W16A or W16B lasit is in the process of being transferred from the top piece to thebottom piece and is likewise held in a center position. Pile warp P1passes under weft W16A and over weft W16B, and pile warp P2 passes underweft W16A and over weft W16B. Pile warp P3 is held in the down centerposition under weft W16B to form half of the interlace with weft W16B inthe bottom piece and to hold against pile warp P5 to thereby cooperateto form the firm foundation for the long pile threads in the bottompiece. Pile warp P4 is held in the up center position to form half ofthe interlace with weft W16A and to hold against pile warp P6 to form afirm foundation for the long pile threads and to permit weft W16A tohold the long pile threads in position Vin the top piece. Pile warp P5is held in 'the up position in the bottom center to complete the otherhalf of the interlace with weft W16B, the hold against pile warp P3 andthe desired firm foundation, as well as the aforenoted functions. PileWarp P6 is held in the down center position of the top piece to completethe interlace with weft W16A, the hold `against pile warp P4, a rmfoundation for weft W16A in the top piece, and to per mit weft W16A tocomplete the functions it is expected to perform in keeping the ytensionconstant on all the long pile threads across the piece, as well asothers; thus the weaving of all warps with wefts W16A and W16B iscompleted, and thus the full cycle of weaving of a complete repeat ofthe Weave. Under such circumstances, the warps and wefts return to theirrespective starting positions and all warp threads will be in positionto repeat the weave at wefts W1A and WIB.

It should be noted by the preceding description that in the completelayout for weaving the P1 and P2 short pile w-arp ends in a regular sixpick-two harness weave and in its combination with a l2 pick-4 harnessweave, each six pick interlacing is accompanied by a long pile end of al2 pick weave. Thus, after the pull-out picks are removed, each pileinterlacing will have two pile ends together, one of short pile and theother of long pile, and the end of long pile will have two differentlengths of pile, one the same length as the short pile with the otherleg of the W being twice as long as the short pile.

The manufacture of fabrics shown in FIGS. 7, 8 and 9 may be carried outon the usual type double shuttle plush loom equipped and operated in asimilar manner to that described in connection with FIGS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5and 6. Thus, warp yarns are drawn through heddle eyes of the heddlemounted in the heddle frames 1-12, which are arranged as shown in theAdiagram marked Draw of FIG. 9. This draw and weave for the weaving of atwo-and-one backing or ground weave, both for the top piece and thebottom piece, is Iso arranged that every end of both top and bottom isheld in a fast pile binding arrangement, except the ends woven with thegauze fabrics, which are essentially loose pile weaves, since thesegauze fabrics are removed from the base fabrics after the pile has beencut to thereby form the tufts for both the top and bottom pieces, theground weave for the gauze fabrics being l up and l down Woven togetherwith the extra gauze warp and the pull-out wefts.

In the present embodiment, which is disclosed along with the others byWay of illustration only, three backing warps are utilized for the topand bottom pieces between each set of pile ends in each reed dent; theseground ends are marked A and A. Two ends of A work on the same harnessand weave alike with the warp end marked A' working between the two endsof A and A weaving opposite to the weaving of A in the top piece.Similarly, with respect to ground warps B and B', there are two ends ofB weaving alike, with one end B weaving between the two ends of B, andweaving opposite to the two ends of B in the bottom piece. The gauzewarps Y and Y form the gauze fabric adjacent to the top piece, and gauzewarps Z and Z form the gauze fabric adjacent to the bottom piece. Bothof these gauze fabrics are set to be Woven on the face side of both thetop and bottom pieces, and, as will be seen in the following descriptionof the weaving, are woven and interlaced to the ground fabrics both topand bottom to form a firm foundation to permit these gauze fabrics tocomplete the function they are oblige-d to perform in accordance withthe pre ent invention. n f

Also utilized are two pile warps P1 and P2 to form the 'short pile inthe fabric, and four pile warps P3, P4, P5

and P6 to form the long pile, all pile ends connecting with the groundfabrics of both the top and bottom pieces,

' and when cut form the tufts for both the top and bottom pieces. Thetwo wefts which are laid across the loom at the same time, one weft forthe top piece and the other for the bottom piece are, in this fabric,used for the weaving of the ground fabrics in the arrangement of oneweft in the ground fabric and the next weft in the gauze fabric. in theweaving of fabrics as shown in FIGS. 7, 8 and 9, it is preferable thatthe loom be equipped Vwith two 4PKIA and PKlB by the upper shuttle S andthe lower shuttle S', respectively, the weft yarn laid by both shuttlesbeing the same size and count.

Warping arrangement is 1st end in warp is 1st end of bottom ground drawnon 7 harness, then 2nd is 1st end of tot` ground drawn on 9 harness,then lst end of top gauze drawn on 1l harness, then 2nd of gauze drawnfor 1st end of gauze for bottom piece drawn on l2 harness, etc., asshown by draw of FIG. 9.`

The Weaving of the fabric according to the diagram and draw and chain isas follows. By the laying of wefts PKIA and PKlB simultaneously byshuttles S and S, the harness of the loom positions the heddles throughwhich the warp yarns are passed such that: ground warp end A is held inthe down position; ground Warp A is held in the up position in the toppiece; ground warp B is held in the up position; ground warp B is heldin the down position in the bottom piece; gauze warps Y and Y' do notWeave with weft PKlA; gauze warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PKlB,since both sets of these gauze warps weave only with the pull-out wefts224 in even numbers; pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the toppiece; pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece;pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the top piece; pile warp P4is held in the down posi' tion in the bottom piece; pile warp P5 is heldin the dwell by the gauze adjacent to the top piece; yand pile warp P6is held in the dwell by the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece, thus theweaving of all warps with wefts .PKIA and PKlB is complete.

L A and A do not weave with weft PKZA in the top` piece,

and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft PKZB in the bottompiece. Gauze warp Y is held in the down position and gauze warp Y' isheldin the up position in the gauze adjacent to the top piece, and gauzewarp Z is held in the down position and gauze warp Z is held in the upposition in the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece. Short pile warp P1and short pile warp P2 do not weave with wefts PKZA or PKZB in that weftPKZA passes over pile warp P1 in the top piece and weft PKZB passesunder pile warp P2 in the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 does not weave withweft PKZA since it is held in the center of the top ground fabric. Pilewarp P4 does not weave with weft PKZB since it is held in the center ofthe bottom ground fabric. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in thegauze adjacent to the top piece, and pile warp P6 is held in the downposition in the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece, thus completing theweaving of all warps with wefts PKZA and PKZB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPIGA and PKSB, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warpA is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp B isheld in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up positionin the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK3A inthe gauze adjacent torthe top piece and gauze warps Z and Z' do notweave with weft PKEB in the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece, the Ygauze warps passing under weft PKSA and the Z gauze warps passing overweft PKSB. Pile warp Pll is held in the up position in the top piece,pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pile warpP3 is held in the down position in the top piece and pile warp P4 isheld in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in thecenter position, it being transferred from the gauze of the top piece tothe gauze of the bottom piece, while pile warp P6 is held in the centerposition, it being transferred from the gauze of the bottom piece to thegauze of the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all warps withwefts PKB-A and PKBB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPK4A and PK4B, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PK4A in thetop piece, and

ground warps B and B do not weavewith weft PK4B in the bottom piece.Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Y is held in thedown position in the top gauze, and gauze warp Z is held in the upposition and gauze warp Z is held in the down position in the bottompiece gauze. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft PK4A in the top pieceand pile warp P2 does not weave with weft PK4B in the bottom piece. Pilewarp P3 does not weave with weft PK4A in the top and pile warp P4 doesnot weave with weft PK4B in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held inthe down center position under weft PK4B and pile warp P6 is held in thetop center position over weft PK4A, thus completing the weaving of allwarps with wefts PK4A and PKLBB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively weftsPKSA and PKSB, ground warp A is held in the down position and groundwarp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B isheld in the up position and ground warp B' is held in the down positionin the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PKSA inthe top piece gauze and gauze warps Z and Z' do not weave with weft PKSBin the gauze of the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the upposition in the top piece, pile warp P2 is held in the down position inthe bottom piece, pile warp P4 is held in the down position in thebottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the top piece,pile warp P6 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece, andpile warp P5 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece, thuscompleting the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKSA and PKSB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPKGA and PK6B, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PK6A in thetop piece, and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft PK6B in thebottom piece. Gauze Warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Yis held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauzewarp Z is held in the down position and gauze warp Z is held in the upposition in the gauze to the bottom piece. Short pile warp P1 does notweave with weft PK6A, since it is in the process of being transferredfrom the top piece to the bottom piece and is held in the centerposition under weft PK6A and over weft PKSB. Short pile warp P2 does notweave with weft PK6B, since it is in the process of being transferredfrom the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in the centerposition over weft PK6B and under weft PK6A. Pile warp P3 is held in thedown center position in the gauze to the top piece such that it is heldunder weft PK6A and forms half of the interlace with weft PK6A and pilewarp P6. Pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the bottom gauze toform half of the interlace with weft PK6B and pile Warp P5. Pile warp Pis held in the up position in the bottom gauze and completes theinterlace with weft PK6B and pile warp P4. Thus, a rm tie of wefts PK6Band the bottom gauze to the bottom ground fabric is attained to producea rm foundation for the bottom gauze to hold all the long pile endssecurely and tightly, and the means by which the bottom gauze takes upall the slack yarn created by the extra yarn delivered to the long pilewarp ends to permit the two heights of pile. In addition, the long pileends are taut for weaving for purposes of keeping the weaving shed clearof loose ends to permit the shuttles, both top and bottom, to fly.Furthermore, the long pile ends are, accordingly, tightly disposed toprevent them from getting snarled and twisted around one another in amanner that loose ends would otherwise ordinarily work. In thisconnection, the long pile ends are taut to facilitate their transferbetween the top and bottom pieces. The long pile ends are, thus, underconstant tension across the piece, thereby enhancing the cutting to theproper length of all the long pile ends. The tying of the gauze fabricsto the ground fabrics by means of the pile ends effectively overcomesthe possibility of the pile ends in the center of the pieces not beingas tightly held as the ends on the sides 0f the pieces where theselvages are the support. Pile Warp P6 is held in the down position inthe gauze to the top piece and completes the interlace with weft PKGAand pile warp P3, and to thus provide a firm tie of weft PK6A and thetop gauze fabric to the top ground fabric to produce a iirm foundationfor the top gauze to hold the long pile ends securely tight, and topermit the gauze to the top fabric to perform the same functions asdescribed in the weaving of the pile warps P4 and P5 in the bottomgauze, thus the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKGA and PK6B iscomplete.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPK7A and PK7B, ground warp A is held in the down position and groundwarp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B isheld in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down positionin the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK7A inthe top gauze and warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PK7B in the gauzeto the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in thebottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the toppiece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top pieceand pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece.Pile warp PS is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pilewarp P6 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece, thuscompleting the weaving'of all the warps with wefts PK7A and PK7B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts PKSA and PKSB, ground warps A and'A do not weave with weft PKSA inthe top piece and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKSB inthe bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warpY is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauzewarp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in the downposition in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 does not Weavewith weft PKSA in the top piece and pile warp P2 does not Weave withweft PKSB in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 is held in the up positionin the gauze to the top piece, and pile warp P4 is held in the downposition in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in thecenter position in the ground of the bottom piece, and pile warp P6 isheld in the center position in the ground of the top piece, thuscompleting the Weaving of all the warps with wefts PKSA and PKBB.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts PK9A and PK9B, ground warp A is held in the up position and groundWarp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp Bis held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the upposition in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weftPKQA in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do not weavewith weft PKQB in the gauze to the bottom piece. Short pile warp P1 isheld in the up position in the bottom piece and short pile warp P2 isheld in the down position in the top piece. Pile warp P2 is held in thedown position in the top piece and pile warp P3 in the center positionas it is being transferred from the top gauze to the bottom gauze bypassing under weft PK9A and over weft PK9B. Pile warp P4 is held in thecenter position during its transfer from the gauze to the bottom pieceto the gauze to the top piece by passing over weft PK9B and under weftPK9A. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in the bottom piece andPile warp P6 is held in the down position in the top piece, thuscompleting the Weaving of all the warps with wefts PK9A and PKQB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPKlGA and PKlOB, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PKlOA inthe top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKGB inthe bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the down position and gauzewarp Y' is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece, andgauze Warp Z is held in the down position and ground warp Z is held inthe up position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Short pile warp Pl isheld in the center position in the ground in the bottom piece and shortpile warp P2 is held in the center position in the ground in the toppiece. Pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the gauze to thebottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the gauze tothe top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the center position in the groundof the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the center position inthe ground of the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all thewarps with wefts PKIA and PK10B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts PKllA and PKllB, ground warp A is held in the down position andground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and groundWarp B is held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the downposition in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weftPKllA in the top gauze, and gauze warps Z and Z' do not weave with weftPKllB in the bottom gauze. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position inthe bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the toppiece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottompiece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the toppiece. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position in the bottom piece andpile Warp P6 is held in the up position in the top piece, thuscompleting the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKllA and PKIIB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay 17respectivelyrwefts PK12A and PKIZB, Iground Warps A and A do not weavewith weft PKIZA in the top piece and ground Warps B and B do not Weavewith weft PKIZB in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the upposition and gauze warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze tothe top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauzewarp Z is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece.Pile Warp P1 is vheld in the center position While in the process ofbeing transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and passesunder weft PKllZA and over weft PKlZB. Pile Warp P2 is hel-d in thecenter position while being transferred from the top piece to the bottompiece. Pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the gauze to the'bottom piece and forms half of the interlace with weft PK12B and pileWarp PS. Pile Warp P4 is held in the down position in the gauze to thetop piece and forms half of the interlace with weft PK12A and pile warpP6. Pile Warp P5 is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottompiece and completes the interlace with weft PKIZB and pile Warp P3 tothus complete the Weaving of gauze to the bottom piece to the ground ofthe bottom piece and thereby provide the desired irm foundation for thegauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P6 is held in the down position inthe gauze to the'top piece and completes the interlace with weft PKlZAand pile Warp P4 to thus complete the weaving of the gauze to the toppiece to the ground of the top'piece whereby a firm foundation isformed, thusthe `Weaving of all warps with `Wefts PKlZA and PK12B isaccomplished.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPKISA and PKlSB, ground `warp A is held in the down position and groundwarp A is'held lin the up position in the top piece, and groundwarp B isheld in the up'position and ground Warp` B is held in theldown' positionin the bottom piece. Gauze w-arpe Y and Y do not weave with weft PK13Ain the gauze to the top piece and gauze warps Z' and Z do not Weave withweft PK13B in the bottompieee. Pile warp P1 is held in the up lpositionin 4the top piece and pile Warp P2 is held in the down position in thebottom piece. Pile Warp P3 is in the down position in the bottompieceand pile Warp P4 is held in the up position in the top piece. PileWarp P5 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece and pilewarp P6 is heid in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece, thuscompleting the weaving .of Vall waips with wefts PKISA and PK13B.

By theireverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelyWefts PKMA and PK14B, ground warps A and A do not weave With weft PKMAin the top piece and ground Warps B and B do not Weave with weft PK14Bin the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y isv held in the down position andgauze warp Y' is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece,and gauze warp Z is held-in the down position and gauze Warp Z is heldin the up position in the gauze toy the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is inthe center position i-n the ground of the top piece and pile warp P2 isin the center position in thegground of the` bottom piece, Pile warp P3does not Weave with weft PK14B-in the bottom piece and pile warp P4 doesnot Weave with weft PKMA in the top piece. Pilewarp P5 is held in thedown position in the gauzeto the bottom piece and pile Warp P6 Y 4isheld in the up position in the gauze to the toppiece,

thus completing the Weaving of all Warps with wefts PKMA and PKMB.

` By the reverse movement ofthe shuttles S and S to lay respectivelyWefts PKISA and PKlSB, ground Warp A is held in the' dogvfvn positionand groundwarp A' is held in the up position inthe top piece, and groundWarp B is held in theJ down position and ground Warp B -is held in thevup position in the bottomxpiece. Gauze Warps Y and Y do not weave withweft PKISA in the gauze to the toppiece, and gauzewarps-Z and Z do notweave with weft PKISB in the gauze to the bottoinpiece. in the top pieceand pile warp P2 is held n the up position in the bottom piece. Pilewarp P3 is held in the up position in the bottom piece andpile Warp P4is held in the down position in the top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held inthe center position during its transfer from the'gauze to the top pieceto the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P6 is held in the centerposition While being transferred from the gauze to the bottom piece ytothe gauze .to the top piece, thus the Weaving of all Warps with WeftsPKISA and PKISB is completed.

By the reveise movement of the shuttles S and-S to lay respectivelyWefts PK16A rand PKlB, ground Warps A 4and A do not weave with weftPK16A in the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weftPKMB in the bottom piece. Gauze Warp Y is held in the up position andgauze Warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece,and gauze Warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held inthe down position in the gauze tothe bottom piece. Pile Warp P1 does notweave with weft PKIGA in the top piece and pile Warp P2 does not Weavewith weft PKIGB in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 does not Weave withweft PK16B in the bottom piece and pile Warp P4 does not Weave with weftPK16A in the top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the up position in thegauze to the top piece and pile Warp P6 is held in the down-position inthe gauze to the bottom piece, thus completing the Weaving of ally theWarps With wefts PKISA and PK16B. f

. By the reverse movement of the shuttles Si and S to lay respectivelyWefts PK17A and PK17B, ground warp A is held in the down position andground Warp A is held in the up position in the top piece. Ground Warp Bis held in the up position and ground warp B is held t in the downposition in the bottom piece. Gauze warps .with weft PK7B to the gauzeto the bottom piece. Pile warp Pl is held in the up position in the to-ppiece and pile Warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece.Pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pileWarp P4 is held in the .up position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 isheld in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece and pile Warp P6 is heldin the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of allWarps with wefts PK17A and PK17B is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts PKISA and'PKlSB, ground Warps A and A do not weave with weft PKISAin the top piece and, ground fWarps B and B do not Weave'with -weftPKSBin the bottom piece. Gauze Warp Y is heldl in the down position andgauze Y is held inthe up position in the gauze to` the top piece, `andgauze Warp Zfis' held inthe down-position 'and gauze Warp Z is the.center posit-ion over weft PKSB land under weft PKISA. Pile warp P3 isheld in theV upposit-ion in the gauze to the ybottom piece to -form halfof the interlace with wett PKISB and -pile'warp- P6. VPile warp P4 isheld in lthe down position-in the" gauze to theltop piece .to form onehalt' of the interlaee with weft PKlSA' and pile Warp PS. Pile warp P5is held in the down position `in the gauze to the top piece andcompletes the other Ihalf of the interlace with weft PKISA and pile warpP4 toithereby weave: the gauze Vto the top piece Vto `the ground of thetop piece and thus form the desired firm foundation for the top gauze.`Pile warp P6 is held in Pile Warp P1 is held in the down position L theup position in the gauze to the bottom piece and completes the otherhalf of the interlace with weft PKISB and pile warp P3 to weave thegauze to the bottom piece to the ground of the bottom piece and thusform a similar rm foundation for the gauze to the bottom piece, thus theweaving of all the warps with wefts PKlSA and PKISB is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectivelywefts PK19A and PK19B, ground Warp A is held in the'down position andground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and groundwarp B is held in the up position and ground warp B' is held in the downposition in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weftPK19A in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do notweave with weft PK19B in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 isheld in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp PZ is heldin the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwellin the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwellby the gauze to the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the up positionin the top piece and pile warp P6 is held in the down position in thebottom piece to thus complete the weaving of all warps with wefts PK19Aand PK19B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectivelyWefts PKZA and PKZUB, ground warps A and A do not Weave with weft PKZQAin the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKZBin the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauzewarp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, andgauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in thedown position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 does notweave with weft PKZOB in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 does notweave with weft PKZtlA in the top piece. Pile Warp P3 is held in thedown position in the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P4 y isheld in the up position in the gauze to the top piece. Pile warp P5 doesnot weave with weft PKZA in the top piece and pile Warp P6 does notweave with weft PKZGB in the bottom piece, thus the Weaving of all warpswith wefts PK20A and PKZGB is completed.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively WeftsPK21A and PKZIB, ground warp A is held in the up position and groundwarp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground Warp Bis held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the upposition in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weftPKZlA in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do notweave with weft PKZIB in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in theup position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the downposition in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 is held in the centerposition during its transfer from the gauze of the bottom piece to thegauze ofthe top piece. Pile warp P4 is held in the center position whenbeing passed from the gauze of the top piece to the gauze of the bottompiece. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position in the top piece andpile warp P6 is held in the up position in the bottom piece, thuscomplating the Weaving of all warps with wefts PK21A and PKZIB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively WeftsPK22A and PK22B, ground warps A and A' do not 'weave with weft PK22A inthe top piece,

and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PK22B in the bottompiece. Gauze warp Y is held in the down position and gauze Warp Y' isheld in the up position in the gauze to'the top piece, and gauze warp Zis held in the down position and gauze warp Z' is held in the upposition in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P1 does not weavewith weft PK22B in the bottom piee. Pile warp P1 does not weave withweft PK22B in the bottom piece and pile lwarp P2 does not weave withweft PK22A in thetop piece. Pile'warp P3 is held in the up position inthe gauze to the top piece and pile warp P4 is held in the down positionin the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 does not weave with weftPK22A in the top piece and pile warp P6 does not weave with weft PK22Bin the bottom piece, to thus complete the weaving of all the warps withwefts PK22A and PK22B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively weftsPKZSA and PK23B, ground warp A is held in the down position and groundwarp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B isheld in the up position and ground warp B' is held in the down positionin the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK23A inthe gauze t0 the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do not weave withweft PK23B in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in thedown position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the upposition in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell by thegauze to the top piece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by thegauze to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of all warps with weftsPK23A and PKZSB is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectivelywefts PK24A and PK24B, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PK24Ain the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PK24Bin the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauzeWarp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, andgauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze Warp Z is held in thedown position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 does notweave with weft PK24B since it is in the process of being transferredfrom the bottom to the top piece and is held in the center position overweft PK24B and under PK24A. Pile Warp P2 does not weave with weft PK24Aduring its transfer from the top piece t0 the bottom piece, and is heldin the center position under weft PK24A and over weft PK24B. Pile warpP3 is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece to formone half of the interlace with weft PK24A and pile Warp P5. Pile warp P4is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece to form onehalf of the interlace with weft PK24B and pile warp P6. Pile warp P5 isheld in the down position in the gauze to the top piece and completesthe other half of the interlace with weft PK24A and pile Warp P3 toWeave the gauze to the top piece to the ground of thetop piece and thusform the desired firm foundation for the gauze to the top piece. Pilewarp P6 is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom plee andcompletes the other half of the interlace with weft PK24B and pile warpP4 to weave the gauze to the bottom piece to the ground of the bottompiece and thus form a lrm foundation for the gauze to the bottom piece,thus the weaving of all warps with wefts PK24A and PK24B is completed.

Accordingly, the cycle of the repeat of the weave is accomplished andall warps are in the same position that they originally occupied duringthe laying of wefts PKlA and PKlB. It will be noted that the short pilewarps P1 and P2 have been weaving in a regular six pick two harnessarrangement, having a two and one binder arrangement for the groundWeave for both the top and bottom pieces. Furthermore, the long pilewarps P3, P4, P5 and P6 have been Weaving in a twelve pick four harnessarrangement, with each tuft of the six pick weave accompanying a tuft ofthe twelve pick weave. As will be appreciated, the use of the six pickweave and the twelve pick weave, as previously mentioned, follows theremoval of the gauze and pull-out wefts.

It will be understood that in the absence of a rm interlock, the Weftswould have ditliculty in holding the long pile ends in the center of thepieces, across their respective widths, taut or as taut as the ends areheld on the sides where the selvages are supported by the selvageholders. lf not held rm in the center, pile will be cut shorter incertain areas because of the sag in the weft caused by the tension ofthelong pile yarn. Additional means such as extra warp threads to holdthese wefts as supports in the center would necessitate extra harnessesin the loom which are not only more diiiicult to run, 'but also resultin a slowing down of the weaving operation. Quite obviously, myinvention provides a rlm interlacng, and accordingly avoids sagginginthe weft.

In view of the foregoing, it should be apparent that it is now possibleby means of my invention to weave two different weaves in the same pieceat the same time. Under such circumstances, a weave can be employed toproduce compactness resembling the line short body down of natural furalong with a weave to produce the long open guard liber of the fur. Forexample, a fine, soft 22V f ing subsequent to said cutting removing thetwo sets of wefts from said grounds.

SVThe invention in accordance with claim 1 including during said dwellinterlacing said wefts with said pile yarn to form a rm foundation fortensioning said pile yarn between said grounds.

wool can be employed in one case while the other may v constitute amono-filament nylon, rayon, mohair or coarse wool. In any event, myinvention is not dependent upon or restricted to lany particular type ofber used in the making of the yarns whether twisted, curled, textured,plain woolen spun, worsted spun, cotton spun or other system.

Thus, I have accomplished the production of two or more lengths of pile,notwithstanding the type of yarn employed. As will be apparent from theforegoing, I may combine certain weaves in the same piece to obtaindilierent lengths of pile while having thesame amount of delivery ofyarn. In vthis connection, I can utilize a U weave having two picks tothe repeat of the-weave together with a six or eight pick W weave. Bothont' these weaves would require approximately the same amount ofdelivery of pile yarn but `would result in a difference of about doublethe respectivey lengths of pile produced by the six pick weave ascompared to the two pick weave. In the event that a double set ofdelivery rollers are found to lbe necessary, those skilled-in the -artare well aware of their incorporation into the presently known looms inwhich two pieces are woven face to face at the same time. in thisconnection, each set of pile delivery rollers is usually independentlydriven through the line of gearing from the looms conventionalperpendicular shaft driven by the worm gear of the crank shaft. Each setof delivery rollers ordinarly has its own change gears which permit thedesired amount of pile yarn to be regu lated and delivered. In addition,it should be understood that the ground weave employed is in no senselimited to that disclosed but may encompass, as for example, thewell-known two for one backing weave.

Thus, the numerous aforementioned objects and advantages, amo-ng othersare most effectively attained. Al-

. though several embodiments have `been specifically disclosed, they`are in no sense limiting and the present invention will be deined bythe scope of the appended claims.

l claim: u

l. in the manufacture of cut pile fabrics having more than one height ofcut pile in a loom adapted to simultaneously weave a top and bo-ttomground vface to face, the steps which include laying the top and bottomground spaced from one another, laying two sets of wefts between the'lgrounds and in planes substantially parallel with the grounds and spacedfrom one another in a direction normal to the grounds, interlacingpi1e-formng yarns to both of` the grounds, providing a dwell of thepile-forming yarns as they are transferred from one grou-nd to the otherfor increasing the effective length of such yarns between said groundsas they are transferred lfrom one f ground to the other, interlacingother pile forming yarns, to both of the grounds such that the length ofsuch 4. The invention in accordance with claim l wherein the wefts inone plane are laid in staggered relationship with respect to the weftsin the adjacent ground and in alignment with the weits in the otherplane -w-arpwise of the fabric.

5. The invention in accordancewith claim l wherein the heights of cutpile extending from one ground correspond to the heights of pile in theother ground.

6. The invention in accordance with claim l wherein the interlacing ofcertain of said pile-forming yarn is accomplished by one weave and theinterlacing of other pile-forming yarn is accomplished by a secondweave.

7. In the manufacture 0f cut pile fabrics having more than one height ofcut pile in a loom adapted to simultaneously weave atop and bottomground face to face, the

eps of laying the top and bottom ground spaced from one another, layingtwo sets of wefts between the grounds and in planes substantiallyparallel with the grounds and spaced from one another in a directionnormal to the grounds, securing a first pile-forming warp to one of saidgrounds, looping said rst pile-forming warp about at least one weft inthe plane adjacent said one gro-undY to provide a dwell of said rstpile-forming warp, interlacing said rst pile-forming warp to the othersaid ground, concurrently with the securing and interlacing of saidlirst pile-forming warp to said grounds securing another pile-formingwarp to one of said grounds and directly interlac'ing it with the otherof said grounds free from said wefts of both grounds, and cutting theinterlacing pile warp between the grounds.

8. The invention in accordance with claim 7 including rior tointerlacing said first pile forming wmp to said other ground, loopingsaid first pi1e-forrning warp about at least one weft of the planeadjacent said other ground to provide a further dwell of said iirstpile-forming warp. 9. The invention in accordance with claim 7 wherein acomplementary cycle of securing, looping and interlacing is similarlyperformed in transferring said pile-forming warps from said other groundto said one ground.

10. The invention in accordance with claim 7 wherein a plurality of saidpile-forming warps are similarly woven to said grounds to provide cutpile distributed substantially equally throughout each ground composedof at least two diierent lengths of pile with the dwell providing thehighest pile extending from each groundv a distanceV substantially inexcess of one-half the distance separating the grounds at the weavingpoint while said wefts remain between the grounds. y i 4 ll. In themanufacture of cut pile fabrics having more than one height of cut pileVin a loom adapted to simultaneously weave a topv and bottom gro-undface to face, the steps of laying the top and bottom ground spaced fromone another, laying two sets of wefts in planes substantially parallelwith the grounds and spaced from one another in a direction normal tothe grounds, interlacing tirst pileforming yarns to both of the grounds,providing a dwell of the lirst pile-forming yarns by loopingsaid lirstpileforming yarns about at least one weft in the plane adjacent one ofsaid grounds as they are transferred from one ground to the other forincreasing the effective length of such yarns between said grounds asthey are transferred from one ground to the other, interlacing otherpile-forming yarns to both of the grounds such that the length of suchother yarns between said grounds as they are transferred from one groundto the other is less than said effective iength, and cutting theinterlacing pile yarns between the grounds.

12. The invention in accordance with claim ll wherein said rstpile-forming yarns interlace with said wefts to firmly interlock saidWefts to avoid sagging in said wefts. 13. The invention in accordancewith claim 7 wherein a complementary securing, looping, and interlacingof pile forming warps is similarly performed in transferring a secondpile forming warp complementing said rst pile 5 forming Warp and anotherpile forming warp complementing said other pile forming Warp from saidother ground to said one ground.

Kaufman Feb. 4, 1936 Wilson June 9, 1936 15 24 Drobile Oct. 12, 1937Kubicky Feb. 15, 1938 fFonda June 28, 1938 Vetterlein May 6, 1941Kaufman Oct. 6, 1942 Keen May 4, 1943 Faber Mar. 6, 1945 De MestralSept. 13, 1955 Karpoff Apr. 28, 1959 FOREIGN PATENTS Great Britain of1894 Great Britain Apr. 9, 1931

